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Author Topic: 88 FZ 750 trying to get back on the road  (Read 840 times)
rkbonds1
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« on: February 07, 2010, 02:15:58 PM »

Thought I'd post this here before it gets too crazy on my welcome post.  loll     Anyway I started working on the bike today removed some of the plastics and the tank. Drained all fuel and tried to start it.... no luck  think didn't do anything so I started tracking down the problem  starter solenoid or push switch not sure. I thought the if like a car has 1 hot terminal, 1 starter terminal, and 1 switch terminal that triggers the starter when you push the button. Mine has power at the battery terminal (12 volts), and power at the switch terminal (I think it was 8 or 9 volts) so I pull the relay and tried tapping it and repowering it still no power to starter terminal. So I'm thinking it's bad, but curious as to why there is power constantly at the switch side? Thoughts. suggestions? Any and all are appreciated.
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« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2010, 02:53:49 PM »

Have you looked at the side stand switch?
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« Reply #2 on: February 07, 2010, 06:10:27 PM »

 Here's the basic route as far as I know. When you turn the key to on, power goes to the stop/run selector switch. Putting that switch in run puts power to the start switch (momentary contact switch) and to the coils. (All should be 12 VDC or what you read across the battery terminal) pushing the start switch puts voltage on the starter relay, closing the relay and sending voltage from the battery directly to the starter. The kick stand switch should be in the stop/run selector switch rung (or path the voltage takes) If this is bad or not making good contact there may not be full battery voltage at the start switch. Also, more than likely, there is another switch in this circuit. Its on your clutch and makes contact when you pull the clutch in to start. (This is a safety thangey to keep you from cranking/starting the bike in gear) there might be another switch, a neutral switch
, to make sure the bike is out of gear when starting.

 To test the switch, with the power off, put the meter on Ohms, place the leads on either side of the clutch switch and pull in the clutch. The meter should go from O/L to 0.
 To test with power on place a wire on the leads, at the plug that goes to the switch and try to start.
 To go more in depth and to have a full electrical diagram of the bike buy a Factory Shop Manual. (Not a Clymers type manual) yea they will cost you some $ but its worth it, trust me. you might be able to order Here's the basic route as far as I know. When you turn the key to on, power goes to the stop/run selector switch.


 Good luck, have plenty of patience, and if you start to get pissed STOP, take a break.



« Last Edit: February 07, 2010, 06:55:25 PM by dredman » Logged

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rkbonds1
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« Reply #3 on: February 07, 2010, 07:31:44 PM »

Didn't think about the side stand switch. Was thinking it would start on the side stand but, still when I removed it I couldn't get it to make contact with the starter side terminal. Will check that tomorrow though just to be sure. I did run a jumper wire to the starter just long enough to make sure it wasn't locked up and it spun freely. So that was a nice sign. I know there is going to be a lot of cleaning and lubeing ahead of me the next big thing I want to do is replace the valve stems so I can get air in the tires.
« Last Edit: February 07, 2010, 07:56:07 PM by rkbonds1 » Logged
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« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2010, 04:40:21 AM »

Removed it or jumped the circuit? The wires have to be connected.
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rkbonds1
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« Reply #5 on: February 08, 2010, 05:30:00 AM »

Removed it or jumped the circuit? The wires have to be connected.

Removed the solenoid, then ran a jumper wire from the batt. to the hot side of the starter.
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rkbonds1
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« Reply #6 on: February 08, 2010, 08:43:07 PM »

Where is the best place in Huntsville to get parts?
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« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2010, 09:47:19 PM »

Where is the best place in Huntsville to get parts?

I'd say your best bet is Midway Cycle on Highway 72 west. It's right on the Madison-Limestone County line.
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lazeebum
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« Reply #8 on: February 09, 2010, 04:06:40 PM »

Try running a hot wire to your positive side of your solenoid, not the big wire. You probably have a bad safety switch  somewhere. Check the kill switch on your handlebar. Also the clutch switch.
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rkbonds1
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« Reply #9 on: February 10, 2010, 03:21:18 PM »

Update on the bike she's almost completely naked, radiator off, fuel tank off, seat off, solenoid replaced and working properly now, started today for about 2 seconds. Would have tried for longer but the tires are flat and it's inside a small crowded storage building so I couldn't roll it outside. I have new valve stems but, couldn't get the tire out of the way so I could get them replaced any ideas on the easiest way to change the valve stems?
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« Reply #10 on: February 10, 2010, 04:11:52 PM »

Are the tires dry rotted? If you want to break them down to install valve stems ya gotta take them off the bike. Or at least that has been my experience. If the tires are dry rotted get the engine running good first. That way you will know whether to invest in tires or not. Just a suggestion.
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rkbonds1
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« Reply #11 on: February 10, 2010, 08:12:09 PM »

Tires are in good shape valve stems were broken off one was completely missing and the other one is barely hanging on.
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« Reply #12 on: February 11, 2010, 01:52:51 AM »

 You might need to go ahead and take the tires off. Most motorcycles run a tube. I do not on my Harley, and it looks like you have the type of rim where you can run with out a tube too. Even so a lot of folks will run a tube anyway, under the mistaken belief it lessen the chance of a flat tire or serious blow out.
 Even with out a tube you will have to take the tire off to put a new valve stem in.
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« Reply #13 on: February 11, 2010, 12:02:57 PM »

The Fz should be tubeless.

The tires have to come off. A good tire man break down one side of the tire and replace the stem, but will charge you the same. It won't need re balanced if done right though.

Have you fired it off yet?
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« Reply #14 on: February 11, 2010, 12:50:07 PM »

Got the valve stems changed out today (big ole pain in the ........) & air in the tires now    at least I can roll it out of the shed. I haven't been able to get it running yet, it did start for about 2 seconds yesterday with some starter fluid while it was in the shed but, that's it. Will have a better chance now that I can roll it out and have room to work on it. I'll take some pics and try again over the next 4 days if the weather holds out.
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rkbonds1
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« Reply #15 on: February 13, 2010, 03:17:50 PM »

An update got a good battery on today and tried to start  the bike it sometimes seemed like it wanted to start but, that was all it, then it backfired 1 good time and I just quit trying. I pushed it back in the shed and pulled the carbs off and started the rebuild got 1 done today the rest will follow in the days to come. I do have a question is there a good way to test the coils? ohm meter maybe? I pulled the screwdriver in the wire then close to metal to see if it was getting spark and the spark seemed small? Also what size socket to pull the spark plugs I tried the normal ones you'd think were right and couldn't get them to work. I plan on replacing the plugs later before I put it on the road but, would like to go ahead and pull these to see what they look like.
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« Reply #16 on: February 13, 2010, 03:35:10 PM »

The plugs should be metric. You did the right thing pulling the carbs. Wanting to start and a good back fire, They need to be cleaned out. Get the plugs out and see how they look and keep us posted.  Thumbs up
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rkbonds1
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« Reply #17 on: February 15, 2010, 02:22:24 PM »

Carbs are rebuilt  Thumbs up hopefully will get them remounted tomorrow then going to try for a restart plugs have been ordered should be here tomorrow as well. I'll see how much of this I get done but, I'm hoping for a good day.
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« Reply #18 on: February 15, 2010, 06:04:16 PM »

Keep up that kind of pace and you will be riding by the weekend!

Z.
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« Reply #19 on: February 16, 2010, 12:46:23 PM »

Ok got the carbs back on and completed bleeding the clutch and discovered this piece is leaking near the bottom left bolt. So I removed the bolts and clutch fluid line and tried to remove it, I could get it to move but, it would come off. What is it and how do I remove it.  think  



« Last Edit: February 16, 2010, 02:04:58 PM by rkbonds1 » Logged
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